Summer Sewing Big & Little

I needed some high waisted shorts to go with that 40s Fun-Shus blouse, so I threw this green denim pair together on Saturday. I used McCall's 8331 again.

I added a ribbon waistband using a fun lipstick print instead of a facing, and I hand picked the zipper. I think since the first several zips I sewed were hand picked, I just don't like the way a machine sewn zip looks most of the time. We all have our hang ups.

I also made the tank up from a thrifted tee. I did a little embroidery on top of the screen print just for fun.

It's been raining A LOT, and I didn't get any good pics, but you get the idea. 

I did some pattern work on the shorts after this to replace the darts with seams, and the next pair I make will have piping in the seams. I'd like to incorporate this piping, which I made by covering white store bought piping with white lace. I think it would look really pretty using contrasting colors of piping and lace too. I originally made this corded piping for my bridesmaid's dress, but didn't end up using it then. I did use some on an Itty Bitty project I whipped up the other night though.

My little bunny got a 24 hour stomach bug a few days back. She projectile vomited in the hall, and finished the day with a fever of 103.9. Yikes! As she slept a lot being sick, I took the opportunity to sew her a pretty dress to help her feel better. I used the Itty Bitty Toddler Dress Pattern from Made by Rae after seeing a sweet baby version on the blog Tilly and the Buttons. I seriously love sewing things while my daughter is sleeping and hanging them up in her room for her to find in the morning. She gets excited and always wants to wear them right away!

 Totally unrelated to anything- in counting some patterns for my Etsy shop recently, I discovered that, sadly, Simplicity 3315 was missing the dress pieces, and contained only the pattern for the coat.

Image courtesy of the Vintage Pattern Wiki

It is a size 14 1/2 or 35 inch bust, and anyone who would like to try sewing up the coat can have it. Leave me a comment with your email address, and I'll contact you to get your mailing address. Is it just me or does anyone else think this would make a particularly classy and glamorous raincoat? Search laminated cotton to find inspiration for some lovely rain wear. 

I Dig the Bat Wing

A few months ago I bought a retro, unlabeled top at the thrift store, and it was so basic, and I liked it so much, that I decided to make a pattern off of it. It is the same piece front and back, so I put it on a grocery paper bag that I cut to lay flat, I folded to mark the center at top and bottom, and I traced around half of it carefully. I then went back and used my curves and straight edge to clean the pattern up. I created bands for the cuffs and hips based off my measurements, and then I set to making some new tops.

The first one came out snug in the arms and hips, but is wearable and has been frequently worn in the last few months. I made a few adjustments for the second, and it came out really well with none of the issues of the store bought or previously made one. I used a presumably vintage length of knit tube fabric that I bought in the thrift.

One of the major bonuses is that between the bat wing and the bands, the pattern goes together extremely fast! And sewn on the serger with minimal sewing machine stitching, it's nearly finished as it is constructed. Then there's the fact that this top embodies what I love about my favorite pieces of clothing- it has unusual details (bat wing and boat neck) while being totally functional and wearable.

 And so you can see my wings........

 Weak, huh? Well, that's because it is actually not a batwing top, although it does look a bit more wing-y when I don't have a long sleeve top underneath. But it's COLD. I think it's technically a magyar sleeve. How did I come to this conclusion, and what is the difference between batwing, magyar, and dolman anyway? I found a book called The Fashion Design Manual by Pamela Stecker that  clears this up- there is a preview on Google Books.

So if you don't know, now you know! Still, I'm pretty sure I'll never convince my husband to say magyar when it's so much more fun to say "bat waaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnggggggg" in your best twang! 

This is Why My Stash is Totally OOC

Because $40 worth of lingerie elastic can be had in my local thrift store for $1.50 on the right day! These bits were grouped into bags- each cut looked to be about 4 yards, and there are lengths of waist and thigh elastic in almost every color seen here.

So, I am making myself up some new lin-ger-ie. I whipped up two unders using the absolutely lovely free vintage style "Grannie Pannies" pattern from Vera Venus. One pair, I did not photograph, because I was wearing them. If you happen to meet me tomorrow, I will be wearing these. T.M.I.?

These cost me about 20 cents to make. The elastic was almost theft, the fabric was given to me by some nice old ladies at a rummage sale, the rosette is from Grandma's stash, and the lining is thrifted rib knit. The only thing I paid full price for is the cone thread. Man, I love thrifting. 

You can download the free pattern from the Sew Vera Venus blog here. It comes in one size, a 37" to 39" hip, but the pattern can easily be graded up or down. It gives a really nice fit, and there is one main seam right up the center back, which makes them very comfy as opposed to just side seams. Basting and turning the elastic before stitching it down is the way to go, as one pair of mine ended up with a wee bit too much fabric at the thighs. I am just nit picking here though, as I love both pair. And wouldn't this pattern make a lovely bathing suit bottom?

The only issue I run into making underwear is with sewing the elastic. I used my serger for one pair with great results, but for this pair I simply sewed the elastic on the outside with a zig zag and trimmed the excess fabric away. I always get occasional skipped stitches when I zig zag elastic, and I don't know why. I have the tension up, and I am using a ball point needle. Any ideas or suggestions? Does this happen to you too? It drives me cray-cray!!!