I Heart the 40s / Sewing up the Fun-Shus Fabric

I have been sewing steadily along as I always do- tank tops, a bathrobe for the little one, a halter top pdf pattern that I am testing, etc. I enjoy it, but sometimes sewing practical items really starts to grate on my nerves. Yes, I probably need more knit tops, but what do I want? I want Fun-Shus.

A few days ago, upon receipt of the final part I needed to get my lovely 221-1 Centennial Featherweight actually sewing, I decided to do something a little bit frivolous and to bust out some of my prized stash fabric. I chose the Fun-Shus fabric I found at a thrift store January of 2012 (what? over a year ago?).

 I chose this pattern, thrifted within the last few months.

And, I made it up on this pretty, thrifted long distance, which hums like a bee.

And I came up with this...

Don't fear the shoulder pad, my dears. And can I just say it? I love a wing-y collar. I do. 

I love the blouse-y effect of the tucks. No, you can't see it here. My arm is totally in the way.  

It's so stinking gorgeous here right now, and I love my deck! I love lots of things! Love is good!

Innards. Collar and button placket interfaced with an old cotton bed sheet.
Edges serged. A fair amount of hand-stitching. Me-made shoulder pads using Casey's tutorial.  

Here's another close up of that FAB-ric, and the vintage yellow buttons I chose to go with it. 

This was so fun to make- it has me feeling all jazzed up about sewing again. That's right. Jazzed up. You thought "jazzed up" was just for little old ladies with cat applique sweatshirts? Well, it's for Fun-Shus too. How about you? What are you jazzed up about right now?

Edited 5/25/13 to add: This project was featured on Sew Country Chick's Sew and Tell Saturday! Thanks Justine!

I Dig the Bat Wing

A few months ago I bought a retro, unlabeled top at the thrift store, and it was so basic, and I liked it so much, that I decided to make a pattern off of it. It is the same piece front and back, so I put it on a grocery paper bag that I cut to lay flat, I folded to mark the center at top and bottom, and I traced around half of it carefully. I then went back and used my curves and straight edge to clean the pattern up. I created bands for the cuffs and hips based off my measurements, and then I set to making some new tops.

The first one came out snug in the arms and hips, but is wearable and has been frequently worn in the last few months. I made a few adjustments for the second, and it came out really well with none of the issues of the store bought or previously made one. I used a presumably vintage length of knit tube fabric that I bought in the thrift.

One of the major bonuses is that between the bat wing and the bands, the pattern goes together extremely fast! And sewn on the serger with minimal sewing machine stitching, it's nearly finished as it is constructed. Then there's the fact that this top embodies what I love about my favorite pieces of clothing- it has unusual details (bat wing and boat neck) while being totally functional and wearable.

 And so you can see my wings........

 Weak, huh? Well, that's because it is actually not a batwing top, although it does look a bit more wing-y when I don't have a long sleeve top underneath. But it's COLD. I think it's technically a magyar sleeve. How did I come to this conclusion, and what is the difference between batwing, magyar, and dolman anyway? I found a book called The Fashion Design Manual by Pamela Stecker that  clears this up- there is a preview on Google Books.

So if you don't know, now you know! Still, I'm pretty sure I'll never convince my husband to say magyar when it's so much more fun to say "bat waaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnggggggg" in your best twang! 

Melaina Buller Top- Sewing from Film Inspiration

Did anyone else love the movie Shag? My sisters and I used to watch it over and over when we were young teens. I have always loved the music, the dancing, and the clothing, which was all represented very well (the film is set in the 60s, but was released in '89). Don't put it on in expecting a great plot and well written dialogue, though. Well, a couple of weeks ago I was browsing vintage sewing patterns, as I have been known to do every day for an hour, and I came across this summer top pattern that looks just like a top Melaina (Bridget Fonda) wears in the movie.

Courtesy of the Vintage Pattern Wiki

Image Vogue.com

Of course at first I wanted to buy the pattern- any excuse, you know? But then I got to thinking and realized I could make this without that pattern. My current vintage pattern collection is nothing to scoff at, and I knew I had to have something I could use as a foundation for this simple top. Enter Simplicity 6500, a simple, button back, darted bikini top. 

Love that Vintage Pattern Wiki

Once I rustled up my pattern, I traced it out (I use soil separator paper for pattern tracing) leaving plenty of extra room to extend the bottom. The I estimated how much length I would need to add for the desired, midriff length and drew in the added length (about 3"). I extended the bottom darts and made the waist larger by adding fabric in at the side seams and making the waist darts smaller. Then I cut, using what little fabric I had left from this piece to make ruffles and bias tape. 

From there, it all came together without much ado, the hardest part being getting the ruffles pinned across the bodice evenly and distributed somewhat evenly. When I make the next version of this in check, I will draw guide lines before I stitch, pinning the darts shut first. And, I will remember to interface the button placket. You would think that I would remember this sort of thing by now. All in all, the wearable muslin is kinda cute though....

In order for this blouse to be 60s and something that I would be comfortable wearing, it has to go with appropriately high waisted shorts. These are the bottoms from the bathing suit I finished up a couple of weeks ago, and I have plans to make a few more pairs of shorts in varying lengths. What is that thing about "the best laid plans of mice and men" again?

I also need to make the neckline a little higher in front and more of a bateau shape. Still, overall I'm pleased. It wasn't that long ago I wouldn't have dreamed I could sew anything up without a real pattern. Heck, it wasn't that long ago I couldn't sew at all. Look at me now, ma! Top o' tha worlddddddd........